Progress in Thurles

Exactly 850 years ago something unexpected but spectacular happened here in Thurles. Can you guess what? No, you’re wrong! It has nothing to do with dragons, aliens or Willie Nelson. In October of 1174, the Norman lord, Richard de Clare (known to his friends as Strongbow), suffered his first defeat in his conquest of Ireland. 

As I’ve referenced before in this blog, the epic battle was fought here in my backyard and the surrounding fields. The area was named Loughnafolla, the Valley of Blood. That name is still used to this day to describe the nearby neighborhood. 

The battle is all old news to Dixie and the other residents of Thurles. Just another bit of medieval history they learned in school. But to me it’s BIG. My house looks out on a medieval battlefield. It’s the coolest thing ever!

The Normans first entered Ireland on the shores of the southeast and we camped there once before and explored the area. You can read all about it in an earlier post (click April 2023 on the sidebar). We weren’t too impressed with The Norman View campsite. It was on the water but there was no access. Just a field with a view.  

We went back to The Norman View a couple of weeks ago. We have joined a camping group and that’s where they were going. We had no idea what to expect. Saturday night they had “an auld session” in a big shed, and we were welcomed and appreciated for our musical talents. Great group of people and great craic!

Before we left for home on Sunday we asked where to find the nearest beach. It was walking distance away. Why didn’t we know this before? And…. it’s the exact beach where the Normans came on shore…. Baginbun it's called. Stunning rock formations from the Cambrian period. I wonder if the Normans were impressed or even noticed the beauty. Probably not. They didn’t sail all that way to see a bunch of rocks. 

Over the years there has been development in Loughnafolla and the surrounding areas of Thurles. It is mostly residential now. I wonder if children realize that when they tell their friends they live in Loughnafolla they’re actually saying, “I live in the Valley of Blood.” 

But some areas remain undeveloped. The fields behind our house were untouched for centuries. Then in the 1800s (I think), some monks settled in Thurles and cultivated the fields. As well as agriculture, the monks brought the first schools to town. We are in their debt.

The fields are still known here as “The Monks’ Fields”. The Monks Pub, where we sing and play our music, is around the corner and the owner is affectionately known as The Monk. His family has owned the fields for several generations.

I have been so happy here. When we sit in the garden, we often notice cows looking curiously over our shoulders from across the fence. The serenity of space and privacy has been a gift that we never expected to find from a home so close to town. On a cloudless night, the moon and stars can feel as close as house guests.  

But all that is about to change. There is a shortage of homes across the country. A local land developer bought much of  The Monks’ Fields and is building a neighborhood out our back window where the cows graze. Like the Normans, he is on a mission and doesn't notice the ecosystems he's disrupting nor the calming vistas he's displacing. 

From this to this!

I cannot be devastated because I daily encounter Syrian and Ukrainian refugees milling about the town, and I dare not feel sorry for myself. And Dixie continually reminds me that people will be so thrilled to have affordable housing so close to town. 

Nevertheless, I feel loss. When the digging began a few weeks ago, I crept into the site when the workmen had gone home, hoping to find an artifact  from the monks or, better yet, the Norman battle. I found a rotten old sandal and some broken shards of glazed pottery. 

As I was examining some unearthed stones, I noticed some interesting anomalies in a couple and brought them back home. I texted pix of them to Thomas, who knows everything, and he immediately recognized them as little crinoid fossils (sea wormy things) and sent me links for identification. 

This began a maniacal obsession for excavating fossils in those fields. Every night I’d watch for the last workman to leave then I’d set to work. I have a nice little collection now of several types of fossils. Nothing too impressive or of value, but more like reminders that 250 million years ago those fields were under the ocean. They have not spoken their last word.

They have their place in the cycle of time and I was privileged to enjoy them for a short period. Everything is temporary and must be conceded to progress and then back to regress in a continuing rhythm of evolution.

The Normans desecrated this small island with magnificent castles and grandiose country houses. But most teeter in ruins now and the land awaits the next great intrusion. It will likely come in the form of cheap cookie cutter homes. I have developed a new appreciation for the unremarkable Norman View campsite.

I'll soon be looking out my kitchen window at a wall. I asked the builder if he would be so sympathetic as to build me a tall, beautiful stone wall, so I don't have to stare at the side of a house. He said he would. He isn't on a malicious crusade like the Normans. But he is a conquerer nonetheless and I can't help but feel overcome.

Maybe my new wall will contain a few fossils. I'd love that.